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Tips from the chef
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Once paid as rent. Now on every table, and still the king of spices.
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“I speak severely to my boy, / I beat him when he sneezes; / For he can thoroughly enjoy / The pepper when he pleases!” — Lewis Carroll, Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland
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In the Middle Ages, a pound of peppercorns could buy a serf’s freedom.
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Pepper is tremendously versatile, and different colors suit different jobs. These pairings are for a balanced blend of black, white, green, and pink peppercorns with allspice.
Three forms, three different results:
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Tools for pepper. A mortar and pestle cracks and grinds peppercorns alone or with other spices; it’s our number one spice tool. An electric spice grinder is handy for large amounts. A pepper mill grinds or cracks small amounts right at the table.
Grind pepper as close to serving as you can. Its aroma fades quickly once the berry is broken.
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What the French once paid their rent in, we now buy for pennies.
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